Can Butchers Cut It? Try A Lamb Tomahawk.

Recently, I had the great pleasure of making a presentation to the Associated Craft Butchers at their annual conference and exhibition in County Kildare’s K Club. My talk was titled “Can Butchers Fight Back?”. Independent butchers face huge challenges from a variety of directions. Life is hard for the average butcher. But, they are a stoic lot by nature (stoic is another word for grumpy) and are slow to complain openly. I hope that my talk gave those in the room something to think over. At the end of the conference, I was saying farewell to a couple of chaps from Irish Country Meats (they distribute lamb to the independent butchery trade in Ireland). The lads were clearing out their fridge and offered me a couple of lamb tomahawks to try. I couldn’t say no…

As we had the meat cost-free, I felt OK about opening a bottle of 2007 Chateau Saint Ahon to match the lamb. That was a good decision.

If one were cooking this over a long period in the sous vide, one would be very careful about using strong aromatics like these. However, as I gave the lamb only two and a half hours at 54ºC (130ºF), the flavour had time to permeate but not to overwhelm the delicate lamb.

After seasoning with the salt and pepper, I vacuum sealed the joints and popped them into the water bath.

I then went off to think about how my talk had gone down with the butchers. I hadn’t pulled my punches. Many of our traditional butchers have gone out of business. To fight back against the onslaught of the supermarkets, they need to offer something that the supermarkets can’t or won’t offer. Some of it is soft stuff (advice, recipes, tea and sympathy), other has to be innovative and unusual. The lamb tomahawk fits that bill. As do pigs cheeks, ham hocks, oxtail, short ribs, tongue, lap of lamb and so many of the less popular, slow cooking, tasty cuts of meat. Thankfully, there is lots that the independent butcher can do to improve business. It’s not all plain sailing but there are many great butchers still doing great things. There is room for lots of co-operation amongst the trade.

But, back to the tomahawk. After the immersion, I browned it in butter in a medium pan.

I served it with a couscous with lots of tasty bits and pieces cut through it. The lamb was delicious. It was incredibly tender, though had more tough connective tissue than centre loin chops might. That didn’t spoil our enjoyment.

Thanks to the chaps at Associated Craft Butchers for asking me to speak and to the lads at Irish Country Meats for the lamb. If you are a butcher reading this, take heart. There is lots to be done and the future can be bright. Start by talking to your fellow butchers. Most are facing the same issues. Some have cracked what may seem like insurmountable problems. You can learn lots from each other. Start by talking.