Sorry for the long-winded headline. But, there is an undeniable truth appended to the oversized introduction. That is “If you want a magnificent tomato sauce, you have to use fantastic tomatoes. “Snicker, snicker, snicker.”, you may reply. That’s because you wouldn’t recognise a magnificent tomato if you met it in the street. On our recent French holiday, while attending the Saturday market in St. Foy Le Grande, I met plenty of fine tomato specimens right there on the thoroughfare. Rather than tell you, let me show you.
It’s not that there is a tomato stall. The place was full of tomato stalls. All selling incredible, fresh, delicious tomatoes.
One even thought it would be best to mix things up.
Having been tempted by all this tomatoeness, I thought I ought to cook something. I selected three massive tomatoes and bought some fresh squid. It would have been rude to walk by the fresh pasta stall, particularly since the Italian guy running it learned his English in Dublin. So all I was missing was some fresh parsley, shallots and garlic (The chap on that stall was pure French) and some local wine. Another grower / producer sold us a lovely bottle of (award-winning) Bergerac wine.
The three tomatoes weighed over a kilo between them. I placed them in a large pot of hot water to break and loosen the skin.
A couple of minutes in hot water does wonders for the skin.
I sliced the tomatoes and removed the seeds.
This left me with a big bowl of tomato pulp. I put that to one side, sliced the shallots (2 bulbs) and the garlic (2 cloves). I sweated these down in a little olive oil.
Next, I added the tomatoes.
I turned the heat down to very low and simmered the tomatoes, garlic and shallots for about two hours. This reduced everything to a thick flavoursome sauce. I then added a handful of chopped parsley.
I then added about a glass of the wine. We were to drink the same wine with the meal so having it in the sauce has a great harmonising effect.
I then tasted and seasoned the sauce. It had about another half hour of reduction to go. While this was going on, I prepared the squid. I will spare you the detail. You can get full instructions on how to do it here. One picture will be enough.
With about five minutes to go to serving, I added the squid. Any longer and it would be chewy and not very nice.
The fresh pasta needed to be warmed through by the sauce.
When that was done, I served this delicious meal.
The sun was just starting to go down on a lovely, warm, French summer’s evening. We really enjoyed this fresh tomato based dish with a glass or two of local Bergerac wine. If you have access to great, big, tomatoes, give it a go. It takes ages to get the sauce to the right consistency. But, it really is worth the time and effort.
Footnote for tomato fetishests: On a previous trip to a different part of La Belle France, I prepared a similar (yet different) tomato sauce to use on pizza. The link is here, if you are really interested.
A Cookbook Collection | 4th August 2015
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Now there’s a title and a half! Looks gorgeous as always. How I wish we were lucky enough to have such great fresh tomatoes here. Anytime I go on hols I overdose on the juiciest ripest tomatoes I can find.
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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They were pretty spectacular. When we settle back into our post holiday routine, the tinned variety make a pretty good substitute. Pretty good but, not the same.
Eilis O'Muireadhaigh | 4th August 2015
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So….you must grow your own. Problem solved.😉
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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Eilis, I wish I could grow them like these ones. If I could, I would, for sure.
katechiconi | 4th August 2015
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Those are indeed excellent and impressive tomatoes and if I hadn’t already had a substantial bowl of home made vegetable soup, I’d be thinking wistfully about a nice tomatoey plate of pasta and squid…
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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You probably have a couple of acres of vast tomatoes growing in your plot Kate. It seems to be summer all year around there.
katechiconi | 4th August 2015
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I confess: I have a bowl of tomatoes I picked yesterday: cherry tomatoes, Romas and Pink Tropics, which are a tropic-proof version of beefsteak toms. There’s also a bunch of fresh basil, and some Ceylon spinach and Brazilian spinach, both tropical versions…. It *is* winter, but doesn’t get very cold; average daytime temperature is 24C…
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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Your winter is hotter than our summer. I would have to either get very lucky growing them against a “sunny wall” or buy a greenhouse. If I buy a greenhouse, I will also buy a pipe and carpet slippers. All will facilitate my slipping into a premature retirement.
katechiconi | 4th August 2015
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Console yourself with the thought that you can grow all sorts of things I can’t… peas, mange tout, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, broad beans, runner beans, apples, pears, cherries, plums, raspberries, blackberries… I could go on and on. You adapt yourself, and things like tomatoes are grown in the winter, and the summer you concentrate on the tropical stuff that can put up with the wicked humidity and high temperatures.
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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Like mangos. If you have mangos, all else pales into insignificance.
katechiconi | 4th August 2015
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You make a very good point. And pineapples, grown in the garden. And passionfruit… OK, I’ll stop now.
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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Blast! And you make those quilts too. Given the weather, you don’t even need them. It’s not fair.
katechiconi | 4th August 2015
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Sorry, sorry….
katechiconi | 4th August 2015
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BTW, when you were at Ste-Foy-Le-Grande, you were about 15km from my sister, who lives in Eymet, where they also have a pretty magnificent market. The butcher there is an artist…
Conor Bofin | 5th August 2015
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I have been there. A lovely town. They have a fantastic market. A friend of mine used to live there.
katechiconi | 5th August 2015
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Small world…..
Debbie Spivey | 4th August 2015
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This looks amazing! I’ve only ever had fried squid (calamari). That sauce with the wine is just making my mouth water though….
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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The squid takes very little cooking. In my opinion, it does need to be fresh rather than frozen. When one gets it right, it is fantastic. When wrong, best to use as rubber bands.
Debbie Spivey | 4th August 2015
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I heard either 3 minutes or 1 hour. There’s no in between… I agree with fresh for just about everything!
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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If you are cooking some of the big, big squid, then the longer cooking is needed. Anything you can fit in the kitchen sink only needs a little time.
Eha | 4th August 2015
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Oh yum!! Absolutely glorious, both the market and the dish. Shall be planting my own tomato plants in about five weeks and yes, it is fun to do the whole multi-coloured and -sized lot: love my Black Russians and the stripy ones and must put some large beef ones in tool ‘Conor’s Pick’ ! Actually I so enjoy cleaning squid: would happily do it every day – so much fun to see the slippery white bodies coming clean of their grey overcoats – but cooking, I am afraid for me a bare two minutes 🙂 !
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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You obviously deal with fresh squid Eha. 2 minutes is plenty if fresh. If not fresh, don’t bother trying to cook them!
Eha | 5th August 2015
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How can one prepare fresh pasta with frozen squid 🙂 ? Oddly enough 100kms from the Sydney Fish Market and 40kms from the nearest fishmonger, I can get ‘proper’ squid locally only sometimes but fresh baby octopus [about 4cms across] seem to come by the bucketload: some market buyer’s fancy? Different texture and methinks would not ‘marry’ with pasta . . .
Conor Bofin | 5th August 2015
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I have yet to try cooking octopus. We don’t see them here very often. A treat in store.
Tara Sparling | 4th August 2015
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It says a lot about the state of the nation when tinned tomatoes generally taste better than the fresh ones available in the vast majority of supermarkets in this taste forsaken island. I’d blame the EU, but I’d have to get in line for that, and I’m notoriously impatient (except when it comes to sauce, obviously)
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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“Taste forsaken island”. I love the description. It really is not true though. Not yet anyway…
Tara Sparling | 4th August 2015
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No, not completely true. But it’s the day after the bank holiday. I couldn’t possibly be expected to say something nice, could I?
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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Probably a step too far. Post a nicer comment later in the week!
Tara Sparling | 4th August 2015
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I don’t want to shock you, Conor. Might save it for Christmas.
Mad Dog | 4th August 2015
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That looks delicious!
I have some French friends who grow the most astonishing beefsteak variety in an ingenious white tent with an elastic support which encourages them to grow upwards. However, size isn’t everything and my Kent farmer Martin’s tomatoes started to ripen two weeks ago and they taste amazing. I was tempted to try some that came in earlier from a different stall, but whilst they looked very attractive they tasted quite bland. Martin says it’s because they don’t row them in soil, which apparently is very important for flavour 🙂
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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The average supermarket tomato here tastes like a pale memory of what tomatoes used to be like. I am convinced that there is more going on than just me fooling myself. Your farmer friend is undoubtedly right. Mind you, lots of sunshine helps too.
Mad Dog | 4th August 2015
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Too true – supermarket tomatoes should be avoided at all cost. They definitely don’t grow them in dirt!
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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Bizarre that we are even having the conversation.
Mad Dog | 4th August 2015
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It’s a bit sad really. How did supermarkets manage to screw up food so much?
StefanGourmet | 4th August 2015
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This is making me very hungry. Great tomatoes. Great dish with lots of flavor. Daring but excellent choice to use red wine. Wonderful. Oh how I wish we could get good tomatoes here…
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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You could do great things with them Stefan. The choice in those markets is wonderful.
babso2you | 4th August 2015
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You have me salivating with this one Conor. Featuring you today on my blog…. 🙂
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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I look forward to seeing it. You are flattering me Barb.
babso2you | 4th August 2015
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Thank you! Enjoy your holiday!
My French Heaven | 4th August 2015
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Oh Oh Oh, now this is something else!!! I haven’t made squid racently, but I now know what will be on the menu on market day! Glorious post Conor!
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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Posting is so easy for me when the markets overflow with great stuff like this. There has also to be an element of novelty in it for me.
Our Growing Paynes | 4th August 2015
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Oh this looks amazing. You did justice to those lovely tomatoes.
Conor Bofin | 4th August 2015
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Thanks Virginia. I enjoyed it, as you can tell.
Linda Duffin | 4th August 2015
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Fabulous.
Conor Bofin | 5th August 2015
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Thanks Linda. A long process but very simple.
Michelle | 5th August 2015
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You’ve really outdone yourself. I am ambivalent about tomatoes. And I generally dislike seafood in tomato sauce. But … I want that right now!!
Conor Bofin | 5th August 2015
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Thanks Michelle,
The squid carries it well. A lot of seafood would be overpowered.
Best,
Conor
Food,Photography & France | 5th August 2015
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Wonderful pasta dish….such a good thing. With big firm tomatoes, like the ones in your post, I often peel them with a potato peeler…sliding the blade from side to side as I move down and round the tomato….it really works and is a lot less messy:)
Conor Bofin | 5th August 2015
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A very good thought indeed. The boiling water approach really is pretty messy. Messy, but well worth it.
Meggie | 5th August 2015
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Looks really delicious! I still wait for my own tomatoes to ripen which is probably a waste of time after this, so far, 12 degree-summer. Suppose I’ll end up with fried green tomatoes! 🙂
Conor Bofin | 5th August 2015
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Fried Green Tomatoes I didn’t even like the movie!
anotherfoodieblogger | 5th August 2015
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Mmmm what a glorious dish that is Conor, you done good! All my tomatoes are ripening now with such a hot summer we’ve had. They usually don’t ripen until September, but we’ve been picking them off the vine for a month now! But we don’t have anything remotely as large or beautiful as those tomatoes from the market. My beefsteaks are barely the size of Romas. I think the unduly hot weather has preventing them from growing larger this year. (And yes, I am sorry. I know you’ve had a cool summer.)
Conor Bofin | 5th August 2015
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Hi Kathryn,
Plenty of water is the answer for beefstakes. You are paying the price for the lovely weather. Thanks for your commiserations.
adamjclements | 6th August 2015
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I want to roll in a barrel of those tomatoes! Here, if not your regular round red tomato they are called ‘heirloom’ or ‘gourmet’ or ‘prestige’ or some such and charged accordingly. Can I suggest a small cross in the skin with a sharp knife on the bottom of the tomato before blanching will help with peeling. Great dish, great pics Conor, thanks..
Conor Bofin | 7th August 2015
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Thanks Adam. In truth, I forgot the cross, it being so long since I did this before. The skins pretty well fell off anyway. Great tomatoes!