I have been keen to post the photo above. It was taken, on 35mm, by my late father, in 1967 while we were at Puck Fair in Killorglin, Co. Kerry. The picture of a ’67 food truck gives a great insight into Irish life at the time. The typography tells me that Fish and Chips was the lead offer. Crubeens were a staple and Hamburgers were something pretty exotic. I had never cooked crubeens. Oh, they are pigs feet, for those of you not in the know. So, when Ety from Ethical Pork offered me a few, I knew I could redress the situation and have an excuse to show a wonderful bit of Irish social history from almost 50 years ago.
The first thing to do with the crubeens is to burn off the excess hair. Given what I was doing, I really don’t see the need to do this but, it was fun and the picture is pretty attractive, in a gruesome sort of way.
Place the trotters in a pot of water and bring them to a boil. Boil for 10 minutes. This will bring impurities and a foamy scum to the surface.
Pour off the water and scum. Clean the pot and add the trotters, water, three carrots, two onions, three stalks of celery, 12 or so peppercorns and a bouquet garni.
Simmer this for three hours. Remove the trotters. Let them cool for about an hour.
Side note on crubeens: Back in the day, they would have been served at this stage of the process. They would have been eaten greedily with a lot of slavering and slopping.
Now roll up your sleeves and take the crubeens apart. Remove all the meat and put it in a bowl.
Separate the fat from what remains and discard.
Put all the bones (there will be lots of them), skin and gelatinous materials back into the pot with the cooking stock. Bring this to a gentle simmer, with the lid on, for a couple of hours. Then remove the lid and take out all the vegetables and pork bits.
Simmer again, to reduce the remaining stock by about three-quarters. Let it cool somewhat. It will start to turn to a very thick, extremely flavoursome stock. Before it sets, pour it through a muslin (Muslin, not Muslim – It’s pork remember).
Pour the stock into ice-cube trays.
I got an even 42. Into the freezer with them!
The stock cubes are a long way from 1967 crubeens. But, they are all about big pork flavour. That much they have in common.
Oh, one last thing. While I was at work the next day, the Wife made a sandwich with the meat. I never got to taste it. It’s 48 years since we were in Puck Fair that day. To date, I haven’t tasted crubeens. A treat in store….
Linda Duffin | 10th April 2015
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My dad was very fond of pigs’ trotters. Like you, I use them to make a stock, especially for pork pies etc. Waste not, want not.
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Linda, I made some gravy with a couple of the little ‘bombs’ last weekend. Glorious flavours.
sybaritica | 10th April 2015
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This is pretty much what we do with pork hocks all the time. I’ve not taken a blow torch to them before, though. Even if hair is not an issue, I guess that al as long as you don’t blacken the skin overly, the process probably adds an interesting new depth of flavor…
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Thinking about it John, I was in two minds as to eating the trotter or making the stock. Still, a good blowtorch photo never did any harm….
katechiconi | 10th April 2015
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Sounds like what I do with my ham bones… Makes a great jellied pork stock with a nice smoked flavour, excellent for a winter soup. Crubeens need a bit of a marketing makeover, I think, starting with the name! I can’t quite understand the attraction, the same way I don’t get chicken wings or feet. Far too much trouble for what you get out of it!
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Hi Kate,
Chicken wings are really only good for stock too. The feet, I never see so I don’t have to go there. I don’t fancy taking on the role of Crubeen Marketing Manager either.
Sanjiv Khamgaonkar | 10th April 2015
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Minerals! What were minerals doing in a food truck?
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Lost in translation Sanjiv, for sure. The term ‘minerals’ refers to soft (non alcoholic) drinks. They are still referred to a such here. I can’t imagine them selling boxite or such like back in the day.
Hope all goes well with you,
Conor
Cats at the Bar.org / Back Home in Bromont.com | 10th April 2015
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I’ve never bothered doing the stock. Now I’ll have to! My family loves trotters and hocks. I leave the bone in when serving. Half the fun is making a total, greasy, mess of yourself. 😀
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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I certainly did that when I was pulling them apart. The gelatinous stuff goes everywhere!
Cats at the Bar.org / Back Home in Bromont.com | 10th April 2015
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A plastic table cloth works well as a bib. 😉
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Why does Dexter come to mind?
Cats at the Bar.org / Back Home in Bromont.com | 10th April 2015
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LOL 😀
Mad Dog | 10th April 2015
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Trotters are a much maligned and delicious part of the pig. Marco Pierre White used to bone and stuff them with foie gras and Fergus Henderson uses the gelatinous stock (Trotter Gear as he calls it) as his secret ingredient. You’ve reminded me of the fantastic trotters I had a restaurant called Brawn, where all the meat is removed and tuned into little balls before breading and deep frying. Great photo 😉
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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I knew I could depend on you for some depth of information MD. My dad also used to make brawn. I am now getting some ideas as to what I should do. Though, I suspect I’ll be the only one eating it.
Mad Dog | 10th April 2015
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I’ve been wanting to make brawn for a long time – I just need a saucepan big enough for a whole pig’s head.
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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I was offered a couple of pigs heads recently and said no. I regret the decision.
Mad Dog | 10th April 2015
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They are very good cut down he middle and cooked slowly in a roasting tray with stock. The cheeks, tongue and brain taste amazing, plus all the skin turns to crackling.
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Stop it! I am getting very hungry now.
Mad Dog | 10th April 2015
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Ha ha – they are cheap too – £5 or less here 😉
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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I suspect too that Marco now rubs them with Unilever salt products and goes “Mmmmm, delicious” in that annoying way of his.
Mad Dog | 10th April 2015
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That may be true, but he’s one of the most talented chefs of the last 100 years. Have a look at this one – BTW, I was mistaken earlier it’s trotters stuffed with sweetbreads and not foie gras:
https://youtu.be/a-D8Wzqs-xc?list=FLwEpMtD-T9LpDxxvF5rr05w
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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You are quite correct. I hate to see him doing his Knor thing.
moylomenterprises | 10th April 2015
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Don’t eat pork, but appreciate your detailed explanation of the process. Always enjoy your posts!
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Thanks. I love to hear that I am not just amusing myself with all of this. I really appreciate the comment, particularly as you don’t eat the stuff!
Best,
Conor
moylomenterprises | 10th April 2015
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You certainly inspired a few eggplant dishes at my house last week after your last post. Even got the little one to eat it. Thanks! Have a lovely day 🙂
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Excellent. Delighted to have been of use.
moylomenterprises | 10th April 2015
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🙂
Amber | 10th April 2015
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Both my grandfathers and several other older family members (some long deceased) were fond of pickled pigs’ feet, which are still easy to come by in the grocery store. We were/still are a poor Scots/Irish/mutt family that came across Appalachia- we couldn’t afford to eat high on the hog. But then, the loin isn’t always the best cut, now is it?
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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The more I taste of pork, the more I think one is better off eating low on the hog instead. Pickled pigs feet sound pretty tasty too. Thanks for that Amber.
Food,Photography & France | 10th April 2015
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We live in a world of pig bits here. With Jenny being a vegetarian, not a lot of it gets into the house. I love trotters in breadcrumbs (pieds de porc St. Menehould). There’s a tiny restaurant at the heart of Les Halles, in nearby NIort, where they do very fine things with pigs:)
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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I am deeply envious. We have lots of restaurants where they do pretty poor things with same. The free range and organic are still very much ‘out there’ over here.
Jody and Ken | 10th April 2015
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The next time I hesitate before posting a particularly vivid raw carcass photo (or make a politically-incorrect pun) lest I offend the squeamish, I’m simply going to ask myself WWCD? (What would Conor do?) I think we both know the answer. Great post. We love all manner of stocks and broths so I’ll be giving this a shot, although your torch looks a wee bit bigger than mine. Great photo of the food truck (Roddy Doyle!). What are “minerals”? Soft drinks? Ken
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Thanks Ken. You are far too generous. Yes, minerals is a name we use for soft drinks. Down the country, the pronunciation would often be minerdals. Not used so much nowadays.
tinywhitecottage | 10th April 2015
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Oh my goodness, what a process and you didn’t even get to eat it! Well, you certainly have some wonderful stock cubes on hand now. Nice.
Conor Bofin | 10th April 2015
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Yes. We had some pork belly last weekend. I used the concentrated stock, some wine, fat and flour to make a glorious gravy. Well worth every minute of prep.
Eha | 11th April 2015
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What a superb lesson! Like any good Scandinavian gal make brawn religiously from both head and feet but have never kept any pork stock separately: shall try soonest Hmm: absolutely love chicken wings and have any number of great Asian recipes to which to say ‘yum’ [greatest gooey and messy party food in Oz!!] . . . also happen to like Marco Pierre White who, after all, has taught most of the present day famous chefs 🙂 ! Oh you should see all of our famed ones going commercial: money makes the world go round!!!!!
Conor Bofin | 11th April 2015
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Too true Eha. Now, where’s my cut of the commercial cake?
foodisthebestshitever | 11th April 2015
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Haha. One day my friend, one day you shall savour the pigs trotter. Boned, stuffed and trussed is also a damn tasty way to consume, or that shredded meat and a little stock into a pressed terrine is also cracking… you just need to hide it from the wife 🙂
Conor Bofin | 11th April 2015
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That would be like trying to hide a truffle from a pig.
Mr Fitz | 11th April 2015
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Love that food truck!! Brilliant !
Conor Bofin | 11th April 2015
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I can’t see it getting a certificate of hygiene nowadays.
Mr Fitz | 11th April 2015
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Feck em! I love it!
StefanGourmet | 11th April 2015
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Lovely pork stock, Conor. Also great if you want to try your hand at carnitas sous-vide (pork shoulder cooked with citrus, pork stock and chiles; loaded with flavor as you can imagine). The muslim/n joke had me laughing out loud! Very educational post too, with two new words for my vocabulary (minerals and crubeens).
Conor Bofin | 11th April 2015
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Thanks Stefan. I enjoyed it and the stock is first class, if you will pardon my boasting.
Tara Sparling | 11th April 2015
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I come from a long line of shopkeepers, Conor, and although we sold hocks well into the 90s, crubeens were long gone. But your post reminded me of a customer who came in every single morning to buy one pound of cheap streaky bacon, a cabbage, and spuds, all of which would have been boiled beyond recognition before being served up to her long-suffering husband. Even when we did sell crubeens, there was no way any of our customers cooked it like that. Just like fish, some pigs’ bits were massacred by indifferent Irish cooking over the decades. You and others (but not Marco PiKnorr White) deserve a medal for rescuing these much-maligned ingredients.
Conor Bofin | 11th April 2015
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Tara,
I only did it because I got them free from Ety. Though I now need to prepare brawn. I’m thinking it will be great with plenty of herbs.
Tara Sparling | 11th April 2015
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Is brawn the one that some dyed bright pink? Other than that it tasted fine if I remember correctly.
Conor Bofin | 12th April 2015
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Brawn is basically pork and bacon bits with herbs in a jelly. Mmmm, jelly.
anotherfoodieblogger | 11th April 2015
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I love learning the “new” words of your country, Conor. ‘Tis a pity the wifey didn’t share the crubeens with you.
Conor Bofin | 11th April 2015
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Far from new. That dates back over 50 years. Then again, so do I.
anotherfoodieblogger | 11th April 2015
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The are new to me!
Phil @foodfrankly | 12th April 2015
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Love it Conor, I never considered this. Would make the basis of the best pork pie too I’d imagine with all that beautifully flavoured gelatinous stock. To the butchers…..
Conor Bofin | 12th April 2015
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A pork pie would be excellent. The stock is pretty amazing, though I say so myself.
Michelle | 13th April 2015
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Love the food truck photo. Love learning a new word. And, hey, I love crubeens. I just didn’t know they were called that!
Conor Bofin | 13th April 2015
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Three wins Michelle. Happy days!
trixfred30 | 13th April 2015
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Dare you to do something with a pigs head. Or chicken’s feet. If I did something like that in this house….well I don’t know what would happen.
Conor Bofin | 13th April 2015
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If I can get my hands on one, it’s Brawn!
trixfred30 | 13th April 2015
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It would be my B’s on a plate if I tried it.
ChopinandMysaucepan | 13th April 2015
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Dear Conor,
Crubeen is a new term as we call them pork trotters. I have not cooked with them but have tasted a few slow briased Chinese recipes and it’s delicious.
Conor Bofin | 14th April 2015
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Thanks for the comment. I would imagine them delicious slow braised in Chinese style. I must try that when I get more.
Anonymous | 18th April 2015
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love the blog Conor, and love reading the comments too! I love a good bit of pork – haven’t tried making the stock yet but the recipe is saved!
Conor Bofin | 19th April 2015
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Thanks. Getting occasional comments like this is one of the things that keeps me at it. Just knowing that there are people getting a bit of amusement and, hopefully, some information gives me a real buzz.
FrugalHausfrau | 24th April 2015
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I grew up in a small Midwestern town and pickled pigs feet were always sold in the grocery store and in the gas station! Always in clear jars, floating murkily about. I never knew anyone to actually buy and/or eat them, though.
billygreen15 | 16th June 2015
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Wow to think 50 years ago a Hamburger was thought to be “Exotic”. Its almost the go to now at food fairs or mobile food vendors.
Conor Bofin | 16th June 2015
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Too true Billy. The world is changing. However, the crubeens could make a comeback and that would be no bad thing.
Thanks for visiting and for commenting.
Best,
Conor
billygreen15 | 16th June 2015
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I would totally agree Conor, just look at the recent rise in popularity of Pull Pork. The Pig is as popular as ever and the idea of using the whole animal and cheaper cuts is very much the latest trend.